An exciting phase of this job was to install new interior trim on the lower windows. The previous homeowner had installed mahogany trim around all the windows leaving 1″ for a future window upgrade but he skipped wrapping the lower windows.

The task of precisely matching the color was a challenge and the results were beyond my expectations. My freshly planed Philippine mahogany was quite pinkish but the existing wood is quite yellow. After an extensive array of samples, we hoped to ensure the new work would age similar to the existing by bleaching the new mahogany before finishing it with a transparent stain rather than use a semi-solid stain to cover the pink.

I was told the previous contractor used Sikkens Cetol 1 “Natural” but learned during my research that Cetol 1 and 23 are not approved for interior use because of high VOC’s believed to cause cancer. I called Sikkens and discussed my options using their 2008 product line. Sikkens now makes a Cetol “Log Décor” for interior applications that comes in several colors including the “Natural Light” color I needed. Nobody stocks this product! I found that of five local distributors not one had any idea how to correctly apply the Sikkens products they sell. (One distributor told me Cetol is a single-coat process, then handed me the product data sheet saying maybe I should read about it first. When I opened the brochure it’s right there in bold print: Application Procedure: 7 steps, 3 coats.) hmmm…

My finish process consisted of first bleaching all the wood with two-part “Klean-strip Wood Bleach”, then applying 3 coats of the new Cetol in Natural Light, then a top-coat of “Sikkens Cetol BL Interior Clear” to achieve a low-lustre sheen.

When installed the new and existing interior trim pieces were indistinguishable from one another. (see photos)

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A new exterior stop was fashioned from clear cedar to hold the large panels in place requiring many passes through the shaper. The clear cedar was more expensive than mahogany. At the start of this project, I planted ten saplings behind my house in a caged started box.

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This is a 2 lb. closed-cell insulation with an R value of 6 per inch. We are achieving R20 on these old exterior walls of true 4x material. The closed-cell spray foam was chosen for it’s structural quality on this project which is predominantly without sheathing. For 175 years this section of the house has never been insulated. The siding was nailed directly to the studs, some of which are still hand-hewn chestnut post and beam. The siding I removed had square-cut nails securing it.

The homeowner tells me his walls are actually warm on the inside of his house this evening. It’s October 21st, 2008 and it’s partly cloudy with a chance of sprinkles. Brisk with lows in the lower 40s. BTW: The spray-foam is watertight, so my liability stress factor has just gone way down. Glad this phase is a success.

Working with a friend to complete this project, it’s coming along nicely.

After demolition of the old deck and passing the footing inspection we got started with the framing. Here are some pictures:
Day 1, Setting the ledger, building beams and setting the posts beneath.
Day 2, Framing the floor joists and adding Simpson strong-ties
Day 3, Installing some decking, finishing framing, Friday clean-up.
Day 4, Finish flooring
Day 5, Build stairs, rim joist, bolt and cut-off beams

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Day 6, Ledger for roof, post and beam, template rafter – rain
Day 7, Rafters – 1/2 day – 95°
Day 8, Frame walls and install handrail posts – 99° (roofed)

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